If you thought the Polynesian Cultural Center (PCC) was mostly just a luau, you’d only be scratching the surface. Don’t get me wrong—their luau is solid—but it’s nothing compared to everything else ...

Captain John Voss, left, aboard the Tilikum in Samoa. “So diminutive,” one Australian ... sail from British Columbia in a modified dugout canoe. He was headed for Australia, seeking adventure ...